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customizing the raglan: peplum ruffle>
Day two of Raglan Week is here! Today, let me show you another simple way to tweak your Raglan T-shirt pattern: turning it into an adorable peplum top!
Check out this photo of an Oliver + S peplum ruffle Field Trip Raglan T-shirt. It’s such a fun and stylish update to the classic design.
When creating a peplum, the length of the ruffle can vary from short and playful to longer and more dramatic. However, getting the proportions right is key. For most peplums, aim to have the top of the ruffle start at or just above the waistline. To find the natural waist, look for that narrower area just below the ribcage. If you're unsure, try singing "I'm a Little Teapot" and bending to the side—wherever you naturally bend is your natural waist. This method works especially well for kids whose tummies might not have a super obvious waistline. On the other hand, if you’re going for a shorter peplum that looks more like a hemline ruffle, a boxier fit can work beautifully, allowing the peplum to start just below the waist.
Let me walk you through the steps to create this look:
First, determine the natural waist and mark where you want the peplum to begin. Add a quarter inch to a half-inch for seam allowance, then carefully cut the T-shirt along this line.
For the ruffle itself, I usually aim for a width that's around 175% of the T-shirt's width, though anywhere between 150% and 200% will look great. Don’t forget to add seam allowance and hem the edges. Once the ruffle is hemmed, gather it at the top edge using basting stitches. Then attach it to the T-shirt after the side seams have been sewn. In this example, I’ve shown how the bottom part of the original T-shirt pattern was removed and replaced with a ruffle that's roughly double the width of the original piece. Cut two pieces—one for the front and one for the back.
Hemming the ruffle before gathering it can also make things easier, as it’s simpler to handle flat fabric rather than fully gathered material.
Here are some styling ideas to inspire your creativity:
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Another cute idea is to pleat the ruffle instead of gathering it. Uneven pleats can still look charming, so don’t stress too much about achieving perfection.
Speaking of changes, I’ll share the peplum I made for my daughter S tomorrow when I explain how to adjust the pattern for short sleeves.
Hope you enjoyed these tips and feel inspired to give it a try!
P.S. Let me know if anyone has any questions or wants to share their own creations—I’d love to see what you come up with!