a shirt gusset tutorial

a shirt gusset tutorial

Sometimes, on ready-to-wear shirts, you might notice a small triangular detail located near the side seam. I refer to this as a gusset. This little addition serves multiple purposes. Not only does it fill in the gap at the side seam, strengthening the area where the two shirt panels meet, but it also adds length to the shirt, helping it stay tucked in more effectively. Additionally, it offers an excellent opportunity to introduce a pop of unexpected color or pattern, adding a touch of flair to what might otherwise be a classic, straightforward design. This is not just a decorative detail—it's also highly functional. You can incorporate this feature into any shirt or top pattern that includes side seams, such as our Liesl + Co. Classic Shirt or Gallery Tunic + Dress. To add some visual intrigue, consider using a contrasting fabric for the underside of the sleeve placket and the side gusset. After all, it’s the subtle details that truly elevate a garment. Below is a step-by-step guide to adding a gusset to your own creations. Before we dive in, download our free gusset pattern piece, which comes in two sizes to suit your preferences. For each Classic Shirt or Gallery Tunic, you'll need two diamond-shaped pieces. 1. Begin by folding one diamond piece in half along its center fold, then stitch one of the side edges with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. For clarity, I used a print fabric in the initial photos to differentiate between the right and wrong sides. 2. Next, trim the corners of the folded triangle and turn it right side out. Press the edges neatly so you’re left with one stitched edge, one folded edge, and one open edge. [Insert Image Here] 3. With your shirt hems prepared and ready for stitching, slip the unfinished edge of the triangle into the folded hemline. Ensure the folded edge of the triangle points downward, while the stitched edge faces upward. 4. Proceed to sew the hem, making sure to catch the triangle’s edge within the seam. Pivot at the side seam to continue stitching along the opposite side of the hem. [Insert Image Here] 5. Once the gusset is positioned correctly, press it away from the hem and toward the other side of the shirt. Take your time to ensure the gusset aligns perfectly with the opposite hem, creating a smooth, seamless appearance. 6. Finally, re-sew the hem on the opposite side of the shirt to secure the gusset in place. Either stitch directly over the original row of stitches or adjacent to it to complete the process. And voila! That’s all there is to adding a gusset to your shirt. Feel free to experiment with colors and patterns to make this detail uniquely yours. We’re excited to see how you incorporate this into your designs! If you're looking to expand your sewing repertoire, check out some of our other tutorials or explore our range of patterns. Happy sewing!

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